Numerical Modeling of Wave Transformation and Sediment Transport in Ystad Bay / Vågor, strömmar och sedimenttransport i Ystadbukten
The main objective of the present study was to apply a numerical modelling system to determine the wave transformation and sediment transport patterns in the Ystad Bay, Skåne, Sweden. This work was performed with emphasis on different time scales and various types of wave conditions. For this purpose, a preliminary study of background data for the Ystad Bay was first performed. A wave transformation model, known as the EBED model, was modified and implemented to calculate the wave field in the bay for the wave conditions from 2004 to 2010 for both extreme situations and for long-term representative conditions. Furthermore, the EBED-modified model was applied to derive two-dimensional current fields. The numerical model developed by Nam (2010) was subsequently implemented to calculate the sediment transport fields with focus on the longshore transport. The simulation results from the application of the numerical models show that waves from south and southwest, which have the long fetches for Ystad Bay, will cause erosion in the western parts of the bay and accretion along the lower southern parts of the bay. These results are qualitatively in good agreement with observations.